Meskerem Ethiopian Restaurant
Reviews
Charlotte Taste
- by Deanna Hansen
(Charlotte Taste, Aug/Sept, 2006, p. 30)
Although Meskerem has only, been open for seven months in Charlotte, brother and sister duo Alex and Tigest Ayalew are no strangers to the Ethiopian restaurant business. Their family has been running three successful restaurants of the same name in Manhattan for years and their business is thriving. Alex, who hails from Addis Ababa, served as a gracious host, eagerly answering all of my questions about both the menu and his home country's rich culture. Tigest takes care of the cooking Ethiopian chefs are traditionally women with recipes handed down from mother to daughter.
Though appetizers are not a tradition in Ethiopia, there are several offered at Meskerem. My friend Jen, admittedly not an adventurous eater, opted for the bright avocado salad while I chose Sambosa, tasty fried flatbread triangles filled with a choice of savory lentils or beef. Jen ordered beer to complement the meal and I opted for tej, a traditional sweet honey wine that Ethiopians have been drinking for over 3,000 years. Ether choice makes a perfect pairing with the spiciness and complexity of Ethiopian food.
The main course was truly authentic. Our server presented us with a huge tray covered with injera, the traditional spongy, sourdough flatbread used in place of utensils. (Legend has it that a 19th century diplomat mistook the bread for a napkin and spread in on his lap
I'm glad I learned from his mistake!) The meal is eaten communally from the same platter by tearing off pieces of injera and scooping up mouthfuls of the stews, called wats, that are ladled on top. An essential Ethiopian ingredient is berbere, a mixture of hot chilies and as many as 15 spices used to flavor the stews. Like a bit of firepower so I opted for the tibs wat, .finely ground beef sautéed with berbere with just enough heat to make me grab for my glass of wine. The stew was at first deceptively sweet but a bite later revealed one of the secrets of Ethiopian cuisine - a complex layer of flavors released over time. Jen dove into the milder special chicken tibs, a boneless chicken stew with onions, tomatoes and garlic jazzed up with awaze - a tangy sauce made with honey wine. Because the Ethiopian Orthodox Church observes over 200 fasting days each year when no meat or dairy is eaten, vegetarian dishes are abundant and delicious. Miser alech, a green," lentil puree, had a smooth, creamy texture and rich flavor. Beautifully caramelized fresh string beans with onions, carrots and tomatoes added sweetness that merged expertly with the spicier dishes. Combination platters are offered if you like to experiment.
The food at Meskerem is very typical of that served in Ethiopia. Imported spices .and teff, the grain used to make injera, are specially ordered. The only major difference is that Tigest's berbere recipe has been adjusted to accommodate sensitive American taste buds. It makes me wonder just how smoking hot the stuff must be in Ethiopia! Aside from the food, however, there are some interesting differences between a night at Meskerem and one in Addis Ababa.
In Ethiopia, guests are seated on short stools around the mesab, a woven hourglass-shaped table covered with a domed lid. A woman performs a hand washing ceremony by pouring water from a long-necked copper pitcher over the fingers of your right hand. The meal is served communally symbolizing friendship and loyalty. The domed lid of the mesab is replaced by a large tray covered with injera, forming an edible tablecloth! The various wats are poured from enamel bowls directly onto the bread. Using the right hand only, you tear a small piece of injera from the platter, ron it around the wat, and pop it into your mouth. Friends or family members sometimes practice the art of gursha, in which a small morsel of food is gently placed in another person's mouth - usua1Iy as a gesture of affection (ooh la la!). It is considered impolite to touch your lips or lick your fingers. The hand washing ceremony is repeated after the meal and small cups of black coffee sweetened with honey are served. In Ethiopia, it is uncommon for Muslims and Christians to dine in the same home or restaurant since each religion has stringent and conflicting rules about the way animals are slaughtered and how food is prepared. Because Ethiopia is the only African country never to have been colonized, its food has maintained its unique style throughout the country's long history. Thankfully, Meskerem preserves the authenticity of this ancient cuisine so that we can enjoy it here in Charlotte.
An Ethiopian meal is a dramatic event. The added sensory elements of touching your food, maybe even feeding your companion, smelling fragrant spices and tasting exotic flavors create an atmosphere that is alluring and sensual. Although families are welcome and kids love the food, Meskerem is also a great place for a first date - or a fun romantic evening with your spouse.